Apparel Fabric Knowledge Base
The apparel fabric knowledge base from Euphoric Colors helps clothing brands understand the textile decisions that affect fit, quality, cost and production—from GSM and cotton types to jersey, French terry, fleece, rib, activewear fabrics, shrinkage, dyeing, printing and fabric minimums.
Fabric is one of the most important variables in apparel manufacturing. The same garment pattern can behave completely differently when the weight, stretch, construction, shrinkage or finishing changes.
Use this resource to understand the terminology before sourcing, sampling or manufacturing your collection.
What Information Defines an Apparel Fabric?
A useful fabric specification includes more than a fiber name. Weight, width, construction, stretch, finish and shrinkage all affect how a textile behaves in production.
Cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon, modal, wool, linen or blends.
Jersey, rib, interlock, fleece, French terry, twill, canvas and more.
Usually expressed as GSM or ounces per square yard.
Fabric width affects yield, marker efficiency and material consumption.
Mechanical stretch and elastane content affect fit and movement.
Stretch without sufficient recovery can create bagging and growth.
Brushing, compacting, dyeing and washing can change weight and hand.
Length, width, twist and dimensional stability should be considered.
Understanding GSM Without Oversimplifying Fabric
GSM means grams per square meter. It is a useful measurement of fabric weight, but it does not independently describe softness, density, drape or quality.
What does GSM mean?
GSM means grams per square meter. It tells you the weight of one square meter of the textile.
Does higher GSM always mean better fabric?
No. Higher GSM means more fabric weight per area. Quality also depends on fiber, yarn, construction, finishing, consistency and suitability for the garment.
Is GSM exact?
Fabric weight normally operates within an acceptable production range. Knitting, dyeing, washing, brushing, drying and compacting can all change the final weight.
What GSM is common for T-shirts?
Lightweight tees may fall around 150–170 GSM, many premium mid-weight tees around 180–220 GSM, and heavyweight fashion tees may reach approximately 230–300 GSM or more depending on the construction.
What GSM is common for hoodies?
French terry and fleece programs frequently occupy approximately 300–450 GSM, while heavyweight premium fleece may reach roughly 450–550 GSM or more.
Can a mill guarantee exactly 390 GSM?
Production textiles normally have tolerances. A specification such as 390 GSM should be understood with an acceptable range rather than an expectation that every yard will measure identically.
Organic Cotton, Supima, Combed, Ring-Spun & Slub
A Fiber Source, Not a Fabric Construction
Organic cotton refers to how the cotton fiber is produced. It can later become jersey, rib, fleece, French terry, canvas or another fabric construction.
Premium Extra-Long-Staple Cotton
Supima cotton is associated with premium U.S.-grown extra-long-staple cotton and is commonly selected for strength, smoothness and a refined hand.
Cleaner Fiber Preparation
Combing removes shorter fibers and impurities before yarn formation, generally producing a smoother and more uniform yarn.
Yarn Manufacturing Method
Ring-spun yarn is formed through a continuous twisting process and typically creates a smoother, softer yarn than more basic open-end systems.
More Textured Cotton Direction
Carded cotton retains more short fibers than combed cotton and can create a drier, more textured or intentionally vintage character.
Intentional Yarn Irregularity
Slub yarn includes planned thick and thin areas that create visual texture in the finished fabric.
Can Euphoric Colors source organic cotton fabric?
Yes, depending on construction, quantity, supplier availability, color, certification requirement and timeline.
Is organic cotton terry the same as organic cotton jersey?
No. Organic identifies the fiber source. Terry and jersey identify different knit constructions.
Does organic cotton automatically mean GOTS certified?
No. Certification depends on the actual certified material and applicable supply chain documentation.
Jersey, French Terry, Fleece, Rib & Interlock
Jersey
Jersey generally has a smooth face and different technical appearance on the reverse. It is widely used for T-shirts, tops, dresses and light knit garments.
French Terry
French terry has visible loops on the inside and a smoother exterior. It is commonly used for sweatshirts, shorts, sweatpants and hoodies.
Brushed Fleece
Fleece is typically brushed on the interior to raise fibers and create a softer, warmer and more plush surface.
Rib Knit
Rib construction provides stretch and recovery and can be used for neckbands, cuffs, waistbands or as an entire garment fabric.
What is the difference between French terry and fleece?
French terry normally retains the loop structure on its reverse. Fleece is usually brushed so those fibers become raised, softer and warmer.
Is French terry better than fleece?
Neither is universally better. French terry provides a cleaner, less plush interior and can be useful year-round. Fleece provides greater softness and warmth.
What is 3-end fleece?
Three-end fleece is a knit construction that uses three yarn systems to help create a substantial face, tying yarn and fleece backing. Actual performance depends on yarn and finishing.
What is 2x1 rib?
The designation describes the knit arrangement of alternating knit and purl columns. Different rib structures create different stretch, appearance and density.
Stretch Is Only One Part of Performance
Activewear fabric must be evaluated for stretch, recovery, opacity, compression, surface, weight and end use.
How far does the textile extend under controlled tension?
Does the fabric return after stretch or remain distorted?
Does visual coverage remain acceptable when the fabric extends?
How much resistance and body does the construction provide?
Cool, slick, brushed, cotton-like or technical surface feel.
Weight influences body but does not independently define performance.
What is 4-way stretch?
The term generally describes fabric that stretches significantly in both the width and length directions.
Is nylon/spandex better than polyester/spandex?
Not universally. Nylon can provide a premium soft or smooth hand, while polyester offers different performance and printing advantages. Construction matters as much as fiber.
How much spandex should leggings contain?
There is no single correct percentage. Fabric construction, yarn, density, weight and desired compression all influence performance.
Why does activewear become see-through?
As the fabric stretches, yarns move farther apart and coverage can decrease. Fabric should therefore be tested under actual expected garment extension.
Twill, Canvas, Poplin, Satin & Structured Textiles
Woven fabrics are formed by intersecting warp and weft yarns rather than knitting loops. Construction affects stability, drape, strength and surface appearance.
Twill
Recognizable by diagonal structure and commonly used for pants, jackets, workwear and structured garments.
Canvas
A durable woven construction often used for workwear, jackets, bags, utility garments and structured fashion.
Poplin
A comparatively smooth plain weave often selected for shirting, dresses and lighter woven garments.
Satin Construction
A weave structure designed to create a smoother surface and more lustrous appearance.
Fabric Dye vs. Garment Dye
The timing of color application changes how the garment is developed.
Fabric dye means the textile receives its color before cutting and sewing. Garment dye means a compatible sewn garment receives color after construction.
PFD means Prepared For Dye and is commonly used where later dye processing is planned.
GARMENT DYE & WASH GUIDE →Shrinkage, Twist, Torque & Fabric Testing
Textiles can change during washing, drying, dyeing and finishing. Development should establish how those changes affect garment fit.
Why is shrinkage testing important?
It helps predict how length and width may change after washing, drying, dyeing or finishing so patterns and specifications can be adjusted appropriately.
Does cotton shrink?
Cotton can shrink substantially depending on construction and finishing. Compacting and prewashing can reduce variation but do not make dimensional testing unnecessary.
Can fleece shrink?
Yes. Fiber content, brushing, washing, drying, dyeing and finishing can all affect finished fleece dimensions.
What is fabric torque?
Torque describes rotational distortion that may cause a garment or seam to twist after laundering.
Can shrinkage be eliminated completely?
It can often be reduced and planned for but should not be assumed to be completely eliminated without testing the actual textile.
Should fabric be approved before production?
Yes. Hand, weight, color, stretch, recovery and shrinkage should be understood before bulk production whenever possible.
Stock Fabric, Custom Fabric & Customer-Supplied Material
Existing Fabric
Usually the most practical route for smaller runs and faster development when the required textile is available.
Mill Development
Appropriate when fiber, construction, weight, color or finishing requirements cannot be achieved through available inventory.
Your Fabric
Customers may supply material, but it should be reviewed for specifications, yardage, quality and production suitability.
Why does custom fabric require higher minimums?
Mills need sufficient yarn, machine time, dye quantity and finishing volume to run the textile efficiently.
Is stock fabric better for small production?
Frequently yes. Existing inventory eliminates many custom yarn, knitting and dye minimums.
Can Euphoric Colors source Los Angeles fabric?
Yes, when suitable domestic inventory is available for the project's construction, quantity and color requirements.
Can deadstock fabric be used?
Yes, but available quantity, defects, consistency and reorderability must be evaluated before committing production.
Why should customers provide extra fabric?
Testing, shrinkage, recuts, mistakes, pattern matching and normal production waste can all require additional yardage.
Printing and Embroidery Start With the Textile
Decoration results can change depending on surface texture, fiber, stretch, fabric weight and garment construction.
Smooth Surface Helps Detail
Texture, rib and stretch can change ink deposit, registration and finished appearance.
Fabric Must Support Stitch Density
Lightweight or stretch textiles may require backing, lower density or special engineering.
Fiber Content Matters
Traditional dye-sublimation works primarily with polyester-based materials rather than cotton.
Heat Matters
Stretch, heat sensitivity and surface treatments should be reviewed before selecting a transfer system.
Start With What You Are Making
Why Fabric Changes the Garment Price
Fabric affects more than the material cost per yard. Width affects yield. Shrinkage affects consumption. Stretch can change sewing operations. Heavy material changes handling. Specialty dye and wash processes add finishing cost.
That is why accurate production pricing becomes easier after the fabric direction has been established.
Start With the Garment You Want to Make
You do not need to become a textile engineer before starting your brand. Send us the garment reference, intended fit, desired hand feel, weight direction, stretch and production quantity.
We can help determine whether an existing fabric is appropriate or a custom textile program should be considered.